Britain is well known for its involvement in India from the nineteenth century, and in particular under Queen Victoria as part of her British Empire. But I'm interested in what the continent was like before the British arrived and its culture, rulers and social life. It was a thriving centre of art, design, architecture and craftsmanship, ruled by the iconic Mughal emperors who wielded, usurped and held onto power. It was with curiosity and excitement then that I booked a ticket to The Great Mughals exhibition at the V&A in South Kensington, London.
The exhibition is subtitled Art, Architecture and Opulence and it's a perfect description for what was on display. I'm currently writing my third book, on some amazing power couples of the fifteenth to the seventeenth centuries, and one I researched in particular detail was Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan. I'd read the accounts of English travellers of Shah Jahan's personal nature, his love of the arts and of course, his Peacock Throne studded with priceless jewels. Mumtaz Mahal would have looked on through a carved trellis nearby so that she wasn't seen by the public, imparting her own contribution as her husband presided over the court. The splendour and the power struggles of Mughal rule, along with its ambitious women fascinated me and as I hopped up the steps of the V&A on a cold February morning I was keen to learn more about this fascinating dynasty.
The exhibition is beautifully laid out, and split into sections relating to Akbar (Shah Jahan's grandfather), his father Jahingir and his own rule as Shah Jahan. The detail and care craftspeople had taken, some five hundred years ago, to create these beautiful artefacts was stunning. I saw other visitors approach a cabinet and then gently shake their heads in amazement - I don't think that in Britain we generally appreciate the art and craftsmanship of those living in medieval and early modern India. Enamelling, resin work, carving and engraving elevated everyday objects as well as others that were of ceremonial use. Manuscript pages from the imperial collection shine with gold, while diamond-encrusted hilts of daggers glitter from their cabinets. I knew from my own research that the Mughal court was one of high artistic and creative standards but even I was set back by the collection.
I was also excited to see some objects here that the Mughal emperors would have known. Shah Jahan's armour, the canopy that rested over Jahingir's head while he sat enthroned and jade drinking cups owned by the rulers were all on display. There were also carpets, clothing, drawings and paintings from their personal collection. One portrait had been handwritten on by Shah Jahan, to record that he thought it a good likeness.
The exhibition took me a good hour to walk around, and the ticket cost £22. For what I learned, and the newfound respect it gave me for the Mughal court and its influence in art, architecture, jewellery and society I felt it was very good value for the price. On the way out is a shop tailored especially for the exhibition, selling Indian-influenced items, some sourced from areas once ruled by the Mughals themselves. Normally I don't buy exhibition guidebooks - they tend to be a bit steeply priced - but for this one I did. It cost £35 (normal RRP £40) but is a big, thick guidebook full of great quality photographs to help remind me of all the things I saw at the exhibition. It also places the objects in context, with a description of each of the reigns of the rulers and their contribution to art. If you're thinking about going to see it, don't hesitate. I honestly loved it. Eye-opening, beautifully curated and well worth the ticket price. Afterwards, you can then exit through the gift shop and visit the rest of the V&A. Don't forget the South East Asia gallery just off the main walkway of sculptures from the entrance to the exhibition. There I found a drawing of an elephant annotated by Shah Jahan along with some other artefacts and jewels that complemented the exhibition perfectly.
The V&A South Kensington is on the Circle and District lines, the nearest tube stop is South Kensington station. The museum can then be accessed through the subway tunnel which also links South Kensington station with the nearby Science Museum and Natural History Museum. Alternatively, from Paddington station it's about a 45 minute walk through Kensington Gardens past the Royal Albert Hall and onto Exhibition Rd. Bag checks were being conducted at the V&A entrance and you just need to show your ticket to the exhibition when you get to the gallery. Check the website and book your tickets here. The Great Mughals; Art, Architecture and Opulence is on until 5 May 2025 - book your tickets online.
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